THE CARETAKER

 

High on a hilltop you rise above your age
and you offer your wisdom of the ancients
(hush, I say, to hear the humble) to ears new
to these old whispers that are now as woven
to the earth as the tress rooted below it, as you
are driven now to plod along this mountain path,
a former teacher and now caretaker of the history
time might have let slide but your mind will not
let fade while I wonder where I was a year ago,
a month ago, a day ago? High on a hilltop
we lean in and listen as you describe what we
have recently found indecipherable. And again
we follow footsteps imprinted into the soil.
We take the right side and bow, thrice, as memory
recalls the emperor taking the central path
while the guards, armed with their faith in the form
of the dragon, harmony in the form of their music
and strength in the size of their sword, ward off
the demons and welcome in the inner light.
There is light here, gentle light, a subtle light
to caress the skin, to sink within as we mount
and meditate on how we got here, to this hill,
to this land, to this life, to this breath. High
on the hilltop we take in the scent of incense
as the chimes ring out to remind us we are not
one, alone, but one single part of the whole
and we bow again thrice and follow the flow
of the stream that knows more about its route
than we ever be able to know about our own.

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All words and photographs by Damien B. Donnelly

Photographs from Beomeosa Temple, Busan, South Korea and special thanks to this wonderful man who was on the bus with us and then gave us a private tour

Audio version available on Soundcloud:

https://soundcloud.com/damien-donnelly-2/the-caretaker

 

SCENES FROM SOUTH KOREA, BUSAN, PART 4

And so we move along the coast, Busan, the beach version of Seoul…

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Of course we arrived to a rather wet beach and not just from the tide

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A major city in the making 

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And everywhere there are mountains, even in the city

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Nightlife taking shape on Saturday, the only night the kids have off from study

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The harbour bridge

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The bridge from our wet hotel rooftop

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The port and the fish market (with the winged roof)

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Gamcheon Culture Village, a city slum getting a facelift

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Gamcheon Culture Village and La Petit Prince dropped in to have a look

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Gamcheon Culture Village

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Traditional Hanbok in Gamcheon Culture Village

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Gamcheon Culture Village where even the bikes are colourful 

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Gamcheon Culture Village

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Gamcheon Culture Village and the steps to the stars

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Gamcheon Culture Village and daily life captured 

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The pound in Gamcheon Culture Village

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Gamcheon Culture Village

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Dolls house in Gamcheon Culture Village

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Gamcheon Culture Village

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Jagalchi Fish Market, shame you can’t smell it

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Jagalchi Fish Market

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Jagalchi Fish Market and giant crabs

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Jagalchi Fish Market

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Jagalchi Fish Market

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Jagalchi Fish Market

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Jagalchi Fish Market

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Jagalchi Fish Market

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A little Louis at Shinsegae Centrum Shopping mall

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The city growing up

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Green onion pancakes, mackerel & somewhere, out of frame, there is, of course, kimchi

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Bus to Beomeosa Temple and this man lovely became our tour guide

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Beomeosa Temple entrance, there are three gates in total

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple Tiles

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple and one of the Buddhas 

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple

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Beomeosa Temple guard

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Beomeosa Temple and the boys (men)

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Stream in the Beomeosa Temple grounds.

Next stop Jeju Island for the last port of call… 

All photographs by Damien B. Donnelly

 

A SLIP AWAY FROM BLUE

 

Eyes a slip of grey from blue in a city
not known as home, on a mountainside
to shelter a temple, she is as welcome
as the wind is warm. She was there before
us and we were caught before we knew it.
She carves a life, carefully, like those Buddhas
carved into stone, the chisel is the compliment
to the rock and not the ruin, an outer expression
of inner contentment, this monastic monk
on a meditative mountain and I fall beneath
her gaze, slip between the stillness that rests
behind each word. Did her mouth smile
or just her eyes that shade of grey a brush away
from blue as she called us to her quiet castle
of wood and wonder and fed us this feast
on a hot day in her temporary temple
along the trail, a rest on the journey, a moment
to bare witness; not to be greater than the Buddha,
not to raise up, not to worship but to reflect on
what we can become. We climb over rock
and broken earth, we diverge through dead ends
that still deliver more light than loss, we thirst
and tire and then take in another treat; another temple,
another tree, a smile from the locals as I offer
my four Korean words and they giggle and talk back
as if I can understand but I don’t and we all laugh.
We travel on and place our tired feet into holds
others once held to as we witness wonders
so many others may never see. We have sat
and shared joy like food, laughter like it was love
and drank coffee like it was an elixir to let us in
on the light that lingers over life and those eyes,
of this gentle light from Lithuania, a slip of grey
from a sea of blue seeing the simple synchronicity

In all that is true.

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This is Chilbulam Temple where a young monk and four wonderful lay women bequeathed us lunch during our hike up Namsan Mountain, in Gyeongju, South Korea.

All words and photographs by Damien B. Donnelly

Audio version available on Soundcloud:

https://soundcloud.com/damien-donnelly-2/a-slip-away-from-blue

 

SCENES FROM SOUTH KOREA, GYEONGJU, PART 3,

And further south the camera goes, Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Shilla Kingdom…

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Coloured umbrellas along the markets streets of Gyeongju

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Tumuli Gongwon, Park with 23 Tombs/Tumili of the Shilla monarchs 

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Rice Fields at sunset

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Polaris Tourist Pension in Gyeongju

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Our place for two days at the Polaris Tourist Pension in Gyeongju

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The start of our Namsan Park mountain climb

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Namsan

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Namsan

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Time to climb, it wasn’t all this easy

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Breaking through

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Chilbulam Temple were we were offered a free lunch by the beautiful Buddhist monk

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Chilbumlam Buddha on Namsan Mountain

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Climbing Namsan

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Topside of Namsan

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Another Buddha in the rock

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And another Buddha 

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The view from above

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Another beautiful Buddha

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Cute warnings are everywhere

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Rocks and trees and nature forever

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Temple at base camp

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Street Art 

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The park under night light

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An ancient astrological observatory constructed between AD 632 and 646 

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Divine dining at Dolsolmaeul

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The gardens of the Gyeongju National Museum

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The Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond from 674 CE

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Wolji Pond

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The Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond from 674 CE

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Temple guards at Bulkuk Temple 

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Bulkuk Temple 

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Bulkuk Temple

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Bulkuk Temple 

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Bulkuk Temple

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Lanterns at Bulkuk Temple 

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Bulkuk Temple 

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Bulkuk Temple 

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Bulkuk Temple 

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Bulkuk Temple 

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More Bulkuk Temple Guards, Gyeongju

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The Bell

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The climb to the covered Buddha at Seokguram.

Next Stop Busan…

All words and photographs by Damien B. Donnelly

 

HUMBLE AT THE HEART

Humble at the heart of this landscape, this dreamscape
I’m training through, I’m taken by its blossoming breast;
forests firing up like volcanos that have shun their rest,
luscious leaves of lava sweep through cities, for man
has no control over the mountain just as nature has no
defence against the molten flame, as fiery as the kimchi
I am trying to come to terms with. This one’s a little more
digestible, you tell me but I know you’re teasing. Beyond
our feasting over meals bigger than our bellies but smaller
than our budgets, skyscrapers attempt to shoot up over
mammoth mountains, a competition man has really no time
to master while in homes, humble, calmness is harboured
to counteract consumer clutter. Humble resides in the heart
of this Republic once ravaged, often raped, now a melting
pot of mystery; many foreign feet of soldiers stamping
have dug their shadow into all that now shines. Museums
have wings for Japan and China and for those Mongols
who molested these mountains still standing, still growing,
still calling us to come and climb and see the world from
another point of view. Tourists now willingly trudge through
tunnels dug out by that luscious lava, we take turns taking
pictures and laugh as its resemblance to a giant turd. We
come to the call of the mountains, all sweaty chested
and dosed in awe, my heart is held at this height, it trembles
beneath this fragile flesh and I hold on tighter to each grip
of grandeur and wonder how long my footprints will be
cemented in this soil. From here, high above the crow’s nest,
where Buddha rests with all that remains, where fortresses
have been forged and since forgotten, these cities sweep
away from who they were and show themselves as who
they are becoming. We are not who we were but what we
have made out of what has been, in dusted days, done to us.

All words and photographs of South Korea by Damien B. Donnelly

Audio version available on Soundcloud:

https://soundcloud.com/damien-donnelly-2/humble-at-the-heart

SCENES FROM SOUTH KOREA, ANDONG, PART 2

The holiday memories continue. Second stop Andong….

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Andong City centre

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ET in Andong

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How to figure out what the restaurant has to offer, Cow this time

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30 limit, 30 degrees and sunset in Andong

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The UNESCO world Heritage 600 year old Hahoe Folk Village with 232 inhabitants

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Rice Fields in Hahoe Folk Village

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Hahoe Folk Village, once home to Prime Minister Ryu Sengryong (1592 to 1598)

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Thatched roofs in Hahoe Folk Village

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The Mask Dance in the Hahoe Folk Village, shoulder walking

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The dance of the lions

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The Bull

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The Butcher out for the bull’s balls

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The forlorn Granny

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The village concubine, Bune

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Hahoe Folk Village

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Hahoe Folk Village

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Our lunch restaurant in the Hahoe Folk Village

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Restaurant treasures

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300 year old tree in the centre of the village with paper wishes

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Hahoe Folk Village

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Hahoe Folk Village

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Tourist transport in the Hahoe Folk Village

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The Mansongjeong Pine Forest in the Hahoe Folk Village

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The Mansongjeong Pine Forest and the Buyongdae Cliff

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Buyongdae Cliff

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Our African Queen ferry at Hahoe Folk Village

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Seen from above

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On top of the Buyongdae Cliff

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Welcome to ConfucianLand, Andong

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The uber modern Confucianland

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ConfucianLand which we renamed Confusionland (a lack of english explanations)

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The longest wooden Bridge in Andong

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The Wooden Bridge

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Looking towards the dam

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The wooden Trail

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village rest stop where we received free tea

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Andong Folk Village

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Interior of house in Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Climbing the hills of the Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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Andong Folk Village

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The cutest snake warning sign ever.

To be continued…

All photographs by Damien B. Donnelly

IN THE SEOUL

This city does not sleep, the wind is as wistful
as thoughts I cannot gather, here on this sojourn
to the south of Seoul. Horns honk along highways
to wake drivers out of day dreams the night cannot
decipher so we buckle up and giggle briefly in back
seats but I cannot see those space bound lanterns
of tied wishes from these knotted sheets I know not
how to untwist. Even on the soft slumbering slopes,
in the shade of the rock bound Buddhas, helicopters
chase the rising sun while you try to chase those parts
of yourself peace cannot pacify. Dysphoria’s the new
mantra. This body won’t sleep, my mind has taken
to meander along this midway, midlife, as trumpets
still announce the coming trains and palaces are filled
with space in place of stained sentiments of wealth,
this eastern stretch of the journey, those cars still honk
in foreign tongues, far from the familiar, all is not what
it once seemed, this mouth no longer makes sense
as I cut across these sweeping vistas of strange words
breathed with bows and ways so traditional they worry
the West. In the North, strange armies are Trumping
in unities many states are too confused to comprehend.
But here, south of these strangled ties and demented
ducks, sitting sweet beneath the stars, the streets awash
with numerous neons twinkling below billowing blankets
of nature’s blossom covering the city in a comfort concrete
can’t squash and man can’t master. My body can’t sleep,
I’ve seen to much but still hope for more while this city
is only now waking up to who it truly wants to be.

All words and photographs by Damien B. Donnelly

Audio version available on Soundcloud:

https://soundcloud.com/damien-donnelly-2/in-the-seoul

SCENES FROM SOUTH KOREA, SEOUL, PART 1

 

Looking back at the last 18 days of holiday.

And so the journey begins, Seoul, South Korea… 

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The Dongaemum Design Plaza

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The Dongaemum Design Plaza

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The Dongaemum Design Plaza

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Pink character in the The Dongaemum Design Center

 

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1st night of arrival, we ask a taxi to bring us to the centre of Gangnam and he drops us off in front of & Other Stories, I work at the Paris Atelier of & Other Stories!

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The City Hall water wave of glass over the Metropolitan Library 

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Cycling through the traffic at Yeouido

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A modern shopping mall 

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Bike ride along the Han River

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The city seen from the National Museum of Korea

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Interior Ceiling of the National Museum of Korea

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Buddha in the National Museum of Korea 

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The city rising at Yeouido

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A face sculpture near Seoul Station

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The Lotte World Tower seen from Lotte World (think Disney in pastel shades)

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The city and Namsan Mountain seen from the N Seoul Tower

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Namsan Mountain, Seoul

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The N Seoul Tower seen from the Namsagol Hanok Village

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Interior of a house in the Hanok village

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Taekwondo in Action at the Hanok Village 

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Traditional Costume (Hanbok) at the Hanok Village 

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The changing of the Deoksungung palace guard

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Deoksungung palace

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British colonial architecture on the Deoksungung palace grounds

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Bell on the grounds of Deoksungung palace

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Deoksungung palace detail

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Traditional Hanbok costume at the Gyeongbokgung Palace

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Gyeongbokgung Palace

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Gyeongbokgung Palace

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Gyeongbokgung Palace

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Girls taking pictures at the Changdeokgung Palace 

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Relaxing at the Changdeokgung Palace

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Hand painted detail of the wooden roof at the Changdeokgung Palace

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Gyeonghoeru Pavilion at the Gyeongbokgung Palace 

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Gyeongbokgung Palace 

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Gyeongbokgung Palace

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Gyeongbokgung Palace 

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Gyeongbokgung Palace 

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Gyeongbokgung Palace 

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Gyeongbokgung Palace 

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Gyeongbokgung Palace 

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The Secret Garden and Pavilion at the Changdeokgung Palace (Joseon Dynasty 1392-1910)

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The Secret Garden, Changdeokgung Palace

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The Secret Garden, Changdeokgung Palace

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The Secret Garden, Changdeokgung Palace

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The Secret Garden, Changdeokgung Palace

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The Secret Garden, Changdeokgung Palace

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Changdeokgung Palace

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The Men’s quarters in the secret garden at the Changdeokgung Palace

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The Men’s quarters in the secret garden at the Changdeokgung Palace

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Changdeokgung Palace

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Changdeokgung Palace

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Ready for the hike at Bukansan National Park Mountain Range

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Buddhas at the first Temple along the mountain trail 

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Buddhist Temple along the mountain trail 

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Buddhist Temple along the mountain trail 

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Going up

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Another mountain Temple 

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Mountain Temple Bell

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Temple entrance gate 

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Golden Buddha in the hills

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Temple roof detail 

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Buddhist Temple 

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Top of the mountain 

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A view from the top.

To be continued…

All photographs by Damien B. Donnelly

WHO WE ARE

 

I came out;
a silent scream
to summon a voice,

screaming,
a hunger
wanting to be heard.

I came out;
a kept cry, cold to comfort,

aching,
a cry looking for compassion,

I came out
in a time changing,

I came out
from a boy learning,

I came out
to let go of a secret,

I came out
to let the secret let go of me.

We are more than the fears we forgo.

We are more than the tears we trickle through.

It is not over when we tell you what we are

but when we can be seen for who we are.

All words and photographs by Damien B. Donnelly